Key Ingredients Lactic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid that works to exfoliate the skin. The INKEY List’s retinol serum is 1.5%, their vitamin C serum is 30% and their glycolic acid liquid toner is 10% – if your skin’s new to active ingredient skincare start with 1 high strength product and use only a … Like this, the products can stay more stable over time. A helper ingredient that helps to neutralize the metal ions in the formula (they usually come from water) so it stays nice longer. It's not only soothing but it' also skin-softening and protecting and can promote wound healing. Third, in-vitro studies show that after ascorbyl glucoside is absorbed into the skin it is converted to pure vitamin C (though the rate of conversion is still a question mark). An error has occurred. Recommended if you have dryer or more sensitive skin. A not so strong preservative that doesn’t really work against bacteria, but more against mold and yeast. If that's the case, it is usually combined with other AHA containing fruits such as bilberry, sugar cane, lemon, and sugar maple in a super popular ingredient mix trade named ACB Fruit Mix. Water (Aqua / Eau), Propanediol, Vaccinium Myrtillus (Bilberry) Fruit Extract, Glycerin, Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract, Xanthan Gum, Acer Saccharum (Sugar Maple) Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Allantoin, Sodium Levulinate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Anisate, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate. It's one of the most commonly used thickeners and emulsion stabilizers. Lactic Acid is the gentlest of all of the Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs). Whether you are confused or curious about skincare, would like to know what It can bind huge amounts of water and it's pretty much the current IT-moisturizer. The Inkey List Alpha Hydroxy Acid Serum is a … Keep out of reach of children. It’s the - sodium form - cousin of the famous NMF, hyaluronic acid (HA). For smoother, softer, more even skin, with pores minimised and blemishes battled, look no further than THE INKEY LIST’s all-star wonder: Alpha Hydroxy Acid Serum. Introduce new products slowly so that you can easily identify any sources of irritation. Starting off with 2% Salicylic Acid, a type of Beta Hydroxy Acid, this is a favorite … Read reviews, see the full ingredient list and find out if the notable ingredients are good or bad for your skin concern! But orange fruit is loaded with lots of other active compounds with a wide variety of possible effects. If new to AHAs start with 2-3 times per week and build up to your own skin\'s tolerance. It bears a close relationship to AHA superstar, Glycolic Acid that can be derived from it, so it's often claimed that Sugarcane Extract itself also exfoliates and brightens the skin. This is a hard task, and there is not yet a derivative that is really proven to be better in every aspect, but Ascorbyl Glucoside is one of the best options when it comes to vitamin C derivatives. The Inkey List Alpha Arbutin Serum contains alpha arbutin at 2% plus hyaluronic acid, squalane at .5%, glycerin, and phospholipids, all ingredients that supply moisture to the skin. Use in the PM and protect your skin with SPF during the day. Beta Hydroxy Acids … We have to start by writing that there are about 900 citrus species in the world, and plenty of them are used to make different kinds of extracts used in cosmetics. Snow Mushroom. Follow with preferred serums and moisturizer. Thanks. For more information on this product see askINKEY below. KEY INGREDIENTS: 10% lactic acid for mild exfoliation; 1% hyaluronic acid … A preservative that works mainly against fungi. The manufacturer claims that both malic and tartaric increase elasticity in the skin, but from our research, the only confirmed uses of these acids are as pH adjusters, especially in the tiny amounts they can be found in the Fruit Mix (less than 1%). A form of skincare superstar, vitamin C. If you do not know why vitamin C is such a big deal in skincare, we have a really detailed, geeky description that's good to read. So now you know that because pure vitamin C is such a diva (very unstable and hard to formulate) the cosmetic industry is trying to come up with some derivatives that have the badass anti-aging properties of vitamin C (antioxidant protection + collagen boosting + fading hyperpigmentation) but without the disadvantages. The extract coming from the Sugar Maple tree, the one whose leaf is on the Canadian flag and gives us maple syrup. Can you guess what? If you are also using Retinol in your evening routine, and want to add an AHA, it's best to use these on alternate evenings and start off slowly to ensure you do not sensitize the skin. Great natural moisturizer and skin-identical ingredient that plays an important role in skin hydration and general skin health. Alpha Hydroxy Acid Also known as AHA, this is a type of acid that is found naturally in different foods and plants, that leaves skin soft and smooth. We have to start by writing that there are about 900 citrus species in the world, and plenty of them are used to make different kinds of extracts used in cosmetics. Salicylic Acid cleanser comes loaded with an anti-acne and congestion arsenal. Its molecule is slightly larger than glycolic acid, meaning it works a bit slower and doesn't penetrate the skin's outermost layer as easily. Good old water, aka H2O. Has to be combined with other preservatives. Bottom line: ascorbyl glucoside is one of the best and most promising vitamin C derivatives that shows similar benefits to that of pure vitamin C, but it's less proven (in vivo vs. in vitro studies) and the extent of the benefits are also not the same. Also known as Sugarcane, Saccharum Officinarum is a handy moisturizing ingredient mostly used as a humectant. What Is The Inkey List Alpha Hydroxy Acid Serum? It’s not strong enough to be used in itself so it’s always combined with something else, often with potassium sorbate. © Copyright 2020, The Inkey List. A helper ingredient that helps to make the products stay nice longer, aka preservative. The typical use level of Xantha Gum is below 1%, it is usually in the 0.1-0.5% range. Lye - A solid white stuff that’s very alkaline and used in small amount to adjust the pH of the product. This means the top layer of skin is newer, and potentially more sensitive to sunlight. It was already used by ancient Egyptians to help oil and fat magically turn into something else. It works mainly against fungi. Some essential oil content is usually also present in citrus fruit extracts, which means a nice scent and antibacterial properties, but also some questionable compounds such as fragrance allergen limonene or phototoxic compound bergaptene. But, citrus fruits are chemically complex mixtures with a bunch of other active components such as vitamin C, flavonoids, phenolics, carbohydrates and essential oil (this latter one coming from the rind of the fruit, but still present in some amount in the fruit extract). only takes 5 simple steps with a playground of knowledge to create a skincare If your skin is sensitive, be careful with citrus extracts. According to manufacturer data, 5% of the fruit mix increases cellular renewal by 24%, while 4% pure Glycolic did the same by 33%. With 10% fruit acids, and 1% Hyaluronic acid, this AHA gently removes dead skin cells from the surface to help your skin appear brighter and improve the appearance of skin texture and pigmentation. AHAs can be combined with most other products. Normal (well kind of - it's purified and deionized) water. is drying. Use AM or PM and protect your skin with SPF during the day. BTW, lye is not something new. It also shows all the three anti-aging benefits (antioxidant protection + collagen boosting + fading hyperpigmentation) that pure vitamin C does. The main reason it is used in skin care is that it contains natural AHA acids, namely Malic and Tartaric, and hence why it supposedly helps slough off dead skin cells in combination with other acid-containing fruit extracts as part of the trade name ACB Fruit Mix. Read reviews, see the full ingredient list and find out if the notable ingredients are good or bad for your skin concern! We like that The Inkey List includes sodium hyaluronate (the salt form of hyaluronic acid) plus a form of vitamin C known as ascorbyl glucoside, which helps brighten skin and provides an antioxidant kick. Alpha Hydroxy Acid + Bakuchiol Moisturizer. This is kind of important for an anti-aging ingredient to do the job, so this is good news, though in-vivo (made on real humans) studies are still needed. Just like orange fruit, lemon fruit also contains citric acid so it is commonly used as a natural, mild exfoliating agent. The Inkey List’s Apple Cider Vinegar Acid Peel is primarily an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA, specifically glycolic acid) product that’s paired with vinegar and mixed fruit extracts said to exfoliate. Btw, Xanthan gum is all natural, a chain of sugar molecules (polysaccharide) produced from individual sugar molecules (glucose and sucrose) via fermentation. BTW, it’s also a food preservative and even has an E number, E202. :) You are almost done: please check your mailbox to confirm your email! Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) are chemical exfoliators. If you want vitamin C in your skincare, that is smart, but do not rely on orange fruit extract for it. It can be used to improve skin moisturization, as a solvent, to boost preservative efficacy or to influence the sensory properties of the end formula. As cosmetic chemist kindofstephen writes on reddit  "sodium hyaluronate disassociates into hyaluronic acid molecule and a sodium atom in solution". It's one of those things that help your cosmetics not to go wrong too soon, aka a preservative. … The INKEY List Alpha Hydroxy Serum contains Alpha Hydroxy Acid, also known as AHA. These have the potential to give lemon extract antioxidant, antibacterial, anti-dandruff, venotonic and moisturizing properties, but the essential oil also brings some questionable compounds such as fragrance allergen limonene or phototoxic compound bergaptene. If the product is too runny, a little xanthan gum will make it more gel-like. New to exfoliating acids? JUST LAUNCHED! We recommend only using one AHA at a time (this includes Glycolic, Alpha Hydroxy and Lactic acids). All rights reserved. Use in the PM and protect your skin with SPF during the day. The Inkey List. The Inkey List… The Inkey List’s Polyglutamic Acid serum contains 3% polyglutamic acid … The Inkey List… Propanediol is a natural alternative for the often used and often bad-mouthed propylene glycol. A helper ingredient that helps to neutralize the metal ions in the formula (they usually come from water) so it stays nice longer. It bears a close relationship to AHA superstar, Glycolic Acid that can be derived from it, so it's often claimed that Sugarcane. Chemically, this is definitely not true, as the two forms are almost the same, both are polymers and the subunits can be repeated in both forms as much as you like. Flavonoids (hesperidin, naringin, luteolin, and ferulic acid) are also nice active compounds with possible antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and vasoprotective effects. We don't have description for this ingredient yet. How to use Alpha Hydroxy Acid The Alpha Hydroxy Acid serum has a super lightweight consistency which allows it to spread easily on the skin and also absorb quickly. This particular one, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract is a very common ingredient, however, the species "Citrus Aurantium Dulcis". (We also checked Prospector for sodium hyaluronate versions actually used in cosmetic products and found that the most common molecular weight was 1.5-1.8 million Da that absolutely counts as high molecular weight).